TOKYO Teshigoto
2020.06.16

Introducing in detail “hand-weaving jewellery” crafted by Higaki Engraving Crafts with outstanding technique.

Craftsmanship

Outstanding technique, hand-weaving jewellery.

Original jewellery from Japan.

Hand-weaving jewellery. When you hear this for the first time, you might ask back: “hand-weaving jewellery?”. “Hand-weaving jewellery” is a jewellery from Japan that was established by the second generation of “Higaki Engraving Crafts”, Nobuo Higaki, and the current owner, third generation Takahiro Higaki. If you take a look at the pendant head of this “hand-weaving jewellery” in which two rings are combined, the gold and platinum strands certainly form an evenly woven mesh filled with an elegant light. Not only is it enchanting as a precious metal, but it also spikes interest on how it was made. Imagine a watch enthusiast fascinated with the beauty of form and the elaborate mechanism.


A two-ring pendant head. Hand-woven gold and platinum strands are beautifully embedded into the rings.

Precisely arranged strands of precious metal.

The process of making hand-weaving jewellery begins with the process of “drawing”, which involves adjusting the thickness of gold and platinum strands to the required size. After applying heat to a strand of precious metal with a burner, it is drawn (pulled) through a special tool with holes of various sizes in the metal plate. Then, the diameter of the strand is reduced to the size of the diameter of the hole. Naturally, the thinning of the strand of precious metal requires a certain amount of force. Because of this, the metal plate is fixed in a vice, then the end of the strand of precious metal is grasped with pliers, and pulled through all at once. When an even thinner diameter is required, the hole size is gradually reduced and the process is repeated until the required size is achieved. Depending on the design of the jewellery to be made, the finest ones are processed to a thickness of only 0.34 mm. Once the diameter of the strand is adjusted, it is twirled using a special tool.



In the process of “drawing”, after adjusting the strand of precious metal to the required diameter, the strand is given volume through twirling.

Weaving the twirled strands.

When the twirled strands are ready, it is finally time to move on to the “weaving” process. The ends of the strands of precious metal are fixed in a vice and weaved, though it is more difficult, compared to soft materials such as wool, to apply just the right amount of force to create an evenly woven mesh. The weaving process is continued while focusing on straying strands.

An outstanding brazing technique.

The technique of hand-weaving together strands of precious metal is also an advanced technique, though seeing the technique of brazing these hand-woven parts together with gold solder cut to less than 1 mm is amazing. Any trace of brazing is hardly noticeable, so it’s truly an “outstanding technique”. A little less than 1 mm of gold solder is placed on the parts to be joined and heat is applied with a burner, the gold solder has a lower melting point than the precious metal used for the mesh and will therefore melt first, smoothly “flowing” between the precious metal mesh and what will become the ring frame. The adhesiveness is quite strong, and the parts that have been joined will not fall apart even when bended into a ring form. What we have been shown for this coverage was the step of brazing together the mesh and the future frame of the ring, though brazing the edges of the ring frames together after bending will surely require an even more advanced skill without which it could not be finished beautifully.


Weaved parts and parts that will become the both edges of the rings. They are brazed together using an outstanding technique.



A little less than 1 mm of gold solder is applied, heated with a burner and brazed.

A technique that creates a unique shimmering.

The “hand-weaving jewellery” of “Higaki Engraving Crafts” is a jewellery that emits a unique light by weaving together twirled strands of precious metal. “Hand-weaving” products are associated with a sense of warmth. Jewellery crafted through a number of processes and under use of outstanding techniques can move and enrich their wearer’s heart.